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With the use of 105 grain bullets, this little demon really comes into it's own as a hard hitting flat shooting medium game cartridge that I for one as a reloader would give the nod over the .243 any day.
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If your looking for great medium game, light recoiling, fast and hard hitting cartridge Joe you won't go wrong with the .6mm.

Nothing against the .243 mind you, as it is a proven little game getter that does just fine.
But if you hand load, why not go with the superior round?

When Ruger came out with the M77 in the mid 1960s I read the gun mags opinions on 6mm Remington vs the Winchester .243. As pointed out the 6mm Remington cartridge holds more powder and with the change in rifling from the .244 Remington it moved up to include heavier bullets, up to the 105 grain. At that time factory ammunition was readily available the same as with the .243. Unfortunately folks flocked to the .243 and pretty much ignored the 6mm. It came to where only 80 grain and 100 grain PSP could I find on the self in stores. I got into reloading the round and 70 grain HP came to life. They sure do a job on coyote. As note above the 105 grain are a great choice. Bullets 58 grain to 105 grain are available. The down side is you gotta reload yourself, for the factory loads are very limited now. I kept my Winchester Model 70 in 30-06 as my last bolt action rifle. The Ruger M77 in 6mm Remington was the next to last. It was a real tough choice for me between the two. I really liked the tang safety on the Ruger and the lighter weight. The final choice came to did I think I would go after lighter weight game, or maybe heavier weight game. I can reload the 30-06 from 90 grain up to 250 grain. The Winchester Model 70 won by just a tad. I still think about that choice every time I reload a 30-06 round. That Ruger M77 was a sweet rifle.
 
I am sorry it offended you. My appology. Maybe you can focus on the Winchester Model 70 that went with it.





Oh no. You did not offend me in an way. Apparently some people can not follow very simple instructions or stay on course of a thread topic.
 
"Favorite bolt-action rifle"? Pretty simple really- a pre-64 Winchester Model 70. Failing that, a sporterised rifle built on the Mauser 98 action.
The .303 British #4MkII I own is among my favorites as well- accurate even with mil-surp due to the sights and carries 10+1, clip-fed reloads.
I also am fond of my old bolt action tube-fed scoped Mossberg .22LR.
 
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"Favorite bolt-action rifle"? Pretty simple really- a pre-64 Winchester Model 70. Failing that, a sporterised rifle built on the Mauser 98 action.
The .303 British #4MkII I own is among my favorites as well- accurate even with mil-surp due to the sights and carries 10+1, clip-fed reloads.
I also am fond of my old tube-fed scoped Mossberg .22LR.

I didn't see your intro thread, welcome! Those are some fine choices :)
 
Picked up my Mossberg MVP Varmint in .308. No complaints. MOA gun, very good out of box trigger, detach mag, -$750 for rifle, the adders it comes with stock are often only found on $1200+ guns.
 
Picked up my Mossberg MVP Varmint in .308. No complaints. MOA gun, very good out of box trigger, detach mag, -$750 for rifle, the adders it comes with stock are often only found on $1200+ guns.

I've heard fantastic things about these guns. Particularly how much comparable guns cost, as you've mentioned. How many rounds do you have through it?
 
The only thing that I don't care for about the rifle is the mag release. It sits up inside a recess and is rather difficult to reach in and press back without deliberate thought and hard pressure. It is however a relatively simple modification to drill and tap it and add an extension to make it easier to manipulate. Other than that the rifle has performed very well. I have about 400 rounds through it so far. No malfunctions. unnamed copy.jpg
 
One tour. To be honest mission to mission we didn't care if nicks n dings happened to our finish and with Krylon you just hit it with a touch up. It's not a finish, it's camo. Making a gun look purdy doesn't matter to me, making a gun blend in my environment does. Hence the Krylon, cheap n effective. One of my Ak's and my 1911 are Duracoated. I did it myself 6 years ago and did a professional job. But I wouldn't bother again. It's not my thing, Krylon works fine for this type of weapon for me. :)
 
On durability note tho, on this side of pond, I sprayed AR 2 years ago, finish now is same as when I sprayed it, one rifle course run with it in brush of North Dakota. Held up to weather too. Lol
 
For elk I shoot a 30/378 Mark V Weatherby, deer, my Mark V .270 Wby mag and antelope/javelina .257 Wby mag. I use my .270 Win Wby Vanguard to target shoot. Guess I kind of like Weatherbys. I have a Ruger model 77 in 7mm mag that is quite accurate, but it's probably destined to be sold soon.
 
I've built two mildcat rifles, one in a .300-caliber magnum and the other in a .358-caliber magnum. The .300 is a target rifle; the .358 is a hunting rifle. The .300 is what the .30-06 Springfield would look like if it was on a magnum case; the .358 is what the .35 Whelen would look like if it was on a magnum case. The .300 is on a stainless, long-action, lefthanded M1999 Montana Rifle Company action equipped with a 27" heavy, stainless Hart barrel. The .358 is on a stainless, long-action, righthanded Remington M700 action equipped with a 24" standard contour, stainless Lilja barrel. Both barrels are fluted; both rifles are fitted with muzzle brakes. The stock for the .300 is a laminated, lefty Richards Micro-fit thumbhole with a wide beavertail front end; the stock for the .358 is a laminated, lefty Boyd's Custom Gunstocks Featherweight Thumbhole which is a "sporter" design, with a narrow front end.

I thoroughly enjoy shooting both of these rifles because the cartridges are of my design. I derive a special feeling of accomplishment with these rifles because from the day I came-up with the idea for the .300 until the first shot was fired was just a few days short of four years. The second rifle took eleven months from the decision to build it until its first round went downrange. You learn a lot from bringing a mildcat to fruition; makes doing a second one much easier.

The design goal for the .300 was to shoot 1 MOA at 1000 yards; I have yet to get around to actually doing it. The design goal for the .358 was to produce 4000 foot-pounds of muzzle energy with a 250-grain bullet. To do so requires a muzzle velocity of 2684 feet per second. I have done that with one or two loads, but not consistently. I got 2688 fps using 65.3 grains of IMR-4895 in one round of three. The first round went 2661 fps, the second 2688 and the third round was lost in the shadow of a falling sun. I used 2674 (average of the two I did have) for the third, which gave me a median of 2674, an SD of 13.5 fps, a 99.5% velocity consistency and 3969 foot-pounds of muzzle energy. I shall load this same load again, but will up the charge by 1.7 grains to 67.0 and see what happens. The rifle is presently set to hit a 6" steel plate at 228 yards. My plan is to push it out to 350 yards and to still hit that 6" steel plate. .35-caliber guns usually run out of gas between 250 to 300 yards. Because mine uses around ten more grains of powder, I think it will still do the job at 350 yards. I once ran a calculation for kinetic energy at 300 yards. I sort o' remember I used a velocity of 2684 fps and a 250-grain bullet in the calculation. With such data, I got a velocity of 2035 fps and 2300 foot-pounds of kinetic energy at 300 yards. Those values ought to put one helsinki of a hurt on an elk, a moose or a big bear at that distance. I'll never know for sure because I do not hunt.

three-mildcats.JPG
 
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