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Got my muzzle device in today!

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Heck yes I'm excited. I am getting some of my parts for the AR308 that I'm building to take Elk hunting at the end of November. I saw this company advertising on gun.deals. Helius Tactical This particular one is the 1776 model for $17.76 plus 20% off using "REMEMBER20" coupon code I got it for less than $15. I threaded it on today just to see how it looks and I am really happy. What do you think of this one?
What kind of muzzle devices do you like or want to get?
Fotor_152737756666083.jpg
 
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The design of that one looks very similar to those that were used on battle tanks of the Second World War. You'll get massive gas-venting to the sides with that one, and quite a bit less out of the top. I assume there are no holes on the underside. It should do a good job for you.

I like the NM Customs Stalker device for AR-type rifles, and the Shrewd Number Four for my prettier firearms. Neither one really requires indexing, although a user could index the wrench flats on the Stalker just to make the installation look "intelligently complete."

www.nmcustoms.com should get you to their home page, or just search "nmcustoms stalker." I did, and my dad's mac took me right to the website. The Shrewd Number Four is sold by Brownells. They come in white steel or stainless. They require turning to contour because they begin overly large. I like that because I usually use fat barrels on a custom build, and I like to have the muzzle device contoured-in to match the taper of the barrel.

The first Shrewd I ever did was on a custom-designed Krieger; the seam was so perfect that I thought Krieger had machined the muzzle device directly out of the barrel. I called Krieger and asked them "Where is the muzzle device I sent you? Did you not use it?" I felt like an idiot when they told me the device was indeed used and it's right on the end of the barrel, you moron. Have you no eyes nor sense to see it?" Of course, they were right and I was wrong-- which is usually the case. If I knew how to Copy and Paste on this mac, I'd get the website address and put it up.

Edit: I put up the web address of a youtube video but after that video is played, some evil force brings up the next one and the one we want to see is gone with the wind. I miss the technology of the early 1960s...
 
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OP
wifininja021
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The Shrewd #4 looks pretty sleek. This will be my first upper I have built myself. I was reading about indexing or timing the muzzle device and some people don't use crush washers because it puts stress on the barrel and can effect long range shooting. I just screwed this on hand tight to see how it looked. When I install it what is the best way to make sure I get the best accuracy? There are no ports on the bottom. The purpose for this build is for hunting Elk or other big game. I also want to build a rifle that people will think twice before saying "You can't take an AR hunting and should only use a bolt-action rifle." I have heard it so many times since I got my tag. Maybe I am hard headed but I want to take a rifle that I built and can accurate shots with. As always any advice is appreciated.
 
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I have one similar. Except it's shorter and a bit fatter. Only one hole on either side and I believe 2 holes over the top. It's pretty funny shooting ammo like tula beside a friend and have them point out that im shooting crap out the sides at them. They always say they feel the concussion too and end up moving further away. There have been a few times I was feeling nice and warned them about it. I have also seen sparks come out with that silver projectile tula stuff. I have stayed away from that since I noticed. If I buy tula or wolf I make sure before I purchase it's got the copper jacket
 
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The Shrewd #4 looks pretty sleek. This will be my first upper I have built myself. I was reading about indexing or timing the muzzle device and some people don't use crush washers because it puts stress on the barrel and can effect long range shooting. I just screwed this on hand tight to see how it looked. When I install it what is the best way to make sure I get the best accuracy? There are no ports on the bottom. The purpose for this build is for hunting Elk or other big game. I also want to build a rifle that people will think twice before saying "You can't take an AR hunting and should only use a bolt-action rifle." I have heard it so many times since I got my tag. Maybe I am hard headed but I want to take a rifle that I built and can accurate shots with. As always any advice is appreciated.
out of all the breaks I've tried, I'm now stuck on VG6. They are a little more money but I have them on my 556, 308 and 6.5. Almost no muzzle lift. The Epsilon is also an integrated flash suppressor as well a muzzle break. As far as timing, I've always used crush washer with no issue. The only way you can screw up your barrel if too much torque is applied and you shear the pin off the extension. Just use an adequate upper vise (best is to use the vise that locks into your barrel extension) and watch your tension. The crush washer also helps as you are not putting the full torque on the barrel, the crush washer is the weaker point so you will flatten that way before you destroy your barrel. I dont know what part of the valley you're in, but I have all the tools needed and experience if you need a hand.
 
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The crush washer also helps as you are not putting the full torque on the barrel, the crush washer is the weaker point so you will flatten that way before you destroy your barrel.
I have been told by a former armorer for the US Army that the crush washer used on AR rifles can be rotated 540 degrees once it contacts the barrel itself. You're certainly going to find the right position somewhere along that 540-degree arc.
 
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The Shrewd #4 looks pretty sleek.
I like 'em, too. No indexing required, but they do have to be turned-down to match the barrel contour. They all come to you with a .22" hole at the end. Any qualified gunsmith can make it ready for the customer's use...

shrewd-brake.JPG
 
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Joe Link

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Heck yes I'm excited. I am getting some of my parts for the AR308 that I'm building to take Elk hunting at the end of November. I saw this company advertising on gun.deals. Helius Tactical This particular one is the 1776 model for $17.76 plus 20% off using "REMEMBER20" coupon code I got it for less than $15. I threaded it on today just to see how it looks and I am really happy. What do you think of this one?
What kind of muzzle devices do you like or want to get?
View attachment 1391
I've heard good things about those. I've literally never used anything but the standard A2 birdcage on an AR15, but I just got two VG6 Epsilon's. I've heard they're great but they make the gun incredibly loud. Can't wait to try them :)

out of all the breaks I've tried, I'm now stuck on VG6. They are a little more money but I have them on my 556, 308 and 6.5. Almost no muzzle lift. The Epsilon is also an integrated flash suppressor as well a muzzle break. As far as timing, I've always used crush washer with no issue. The only way you can screw up your barrel if too much torque is applied and you shear the pin off the extension. Just use an adequate upper vise (best is to use the vise that locks into your barrel extension) and watch your tension. The crush washer also helps as you are not putting the full torque on the barrel, the crush washer is the weaker point so you will flatten that way before you destroy your barrel. I dont know what part of the valley you're in, but I have all the tools needed and experience if you need a hand.
Good to hear another vote for the VG6!

Anyone know what it takes to remove a A2 from a Colt 6920? Would one of those Tipton gun vices be sufficient, or do I need an actual vice?
 
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Anyone know what it takes to remove a A2 from a Colt 6920? Would one of those Tipton gun vices be sufficient, or do I need an actual vice?
They actually come off quite easily. I did one with just the grip of one hand and a 10" crescent wrench in the other. You could clamp the flash-hider in a soft-jaw vise, then turn the barrel with the A-frame front sight. The sight is pinned, so it won't turn. You could also wrap a thick leather belt around the barrel and clamp it in a vise. The A2 would then be very easy to spin off. If the barrel is less than sixteen inches in length, the A2 device may be pinned & welded or silver-soldered in place. That will require a gunsmith to drill-out the pin or melt the solder before removal can take place.
 
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I've got the Shrewd Precision 7 Degree Brake on my 6.5 Creedmoor bolt gun. Nice brake and works like it's supposed too..
 

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