JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Ordered a MagPul M700 fixed-stock in FDE at about 1900 PDT, this date (October 2, 2023).

It was $570, plus $15 in shipping and $36-some in tax. I got $57 off for grabbing some promotional code, bringing the total to just a few bucks plus-or-minus from the retail price. I didn't get exactly what I wanted, but I got something after looking for several years. I'll be a believer when the thing is actually in my hands, and I can actually see it with my own eyebones...
Item arrived on Friday, Oct 6. I'm short on time today, so all I can say is the thing is a work of art. It has a solid feel to it; not hollow nor "plasticky." My TL-3 dropped right into the receiver area after I swapped-over the block-off plates that allow the stock to be ambidextrous. I don't have a barrel yet but I eyeballed the clearance between the mouth of the receiver and the aluminum chassis, and it looks like the Savage Arms-type barrel nut that secures the barrel to the receiver will present no interference problems. I would have to believe MagPul did a lot of research regarding all the different makers of actions out there, and they designed this chassis to fit them all.

This one came so fast, I'm all revved-up about the one coming from S2Δ. I've decided to keep them both and maybe someday I'll build a second rifle that will use the one that goes wanting in the present days. Or... I could sell it to a good home if the buyer doesn't want to wait for years to get one...
 
This one came so fast, I'm all revved-up about the one coming from S2Δ. I've decided to keep them both and maybe someday I'll build a second rifle that will use the one that goes wanting in the present days. Or... I could sell it to a good home if the buyer doesn't want to wait for years to get one...
The chassis from S2Delta arrived today. It is so lightweight, the box felt like it was empty. Once unboxed, it felt as if I had nothing in my hand. This one is also a work of art. I immediately swapped-over the filler to make this item a lefty, and attached the thumb rest to the right side. I looked at where the mouth of the action will be and saw there is oodles of volume where the barrel nut will be. The assets-end of the chassis is not shaped for an easy attachment of an A2 rifle stock. Why the designers didn't do that, I cannot figger-out. Would have been so easy and so simple to have the rear of the chassis immediately ready to just screw-in the buffer tube, slide the stock over the tube and tighten the screw to secure the stock to the tube. But they didn't do that. It will accept a carbine tube with a collapsible buttstock, but that won't cut it for me because I want this rifle to hit small targets at great distances. A wobbly CAR-15 stock ain't gonna do it.

I took some digital pictures, but I haven't fooled-around with editing and resizing images for quite a while. I don't remember how to do it, so no pictures for right now.

I can see an A2 buffer tube screwed into the rear of the chassis, a drop of blue Loc-Tite to hold it, the full-length rifle stock slipped over the tube and three screws located on the left side of the stock that attach to stock to the buffer tube. It won't be pretty, but it should work. There is nothing within the buffer tube, so having three screws intrude into that space will present no problems...

S2Delta chassis 02.JPG S2Delta right side 480 pix.JPG
 
Last Edited:
Ordered a MagPul M700 fixed-stock in FDE at about 1900 PDT, this date. Wanted one that showed on Midway USA's website at $854, but was unable to have the checkout and payment proceed. Went back to the Midway homepage and found another (the FDE one) for $500-some. Ordered that one and it went right through. The MagPul stocks are ambidextrous; just remove the small plates/spacers for the opposite hand and replace them to the other side. My action is left-bolt and right-ejection, so I must have an ambidextrous stock. These stocks have been unavailable for several years. I saw that Midway USA had a bunch in stock, checked my balance at Morgan Stanley and went for it! It is slated to arrive by FedEx Ground in about ten days. Now I need to buy a trigger, a safety if it doesn't come with the trigger, an AICS magazine system, and a barrel for my TL-3 action. Then comes the $3600 Nightforce scope...


It was $570, plus $15 in shipping and $36-some in tax. I got $57 off for grabbing some promotional code, bringing the total to just a few bucks plus-or-minus from the retail price. I didn't get exactly what I wanted, but I got something after looking for several years. I'll be a believer when the thing is actually in my hands, and I can actually see it with my own eyebones...


View attachment 22253
This is sexy!!!
 
This is sexy!!!
Yes; the MagPul is a nice chassis. Has a really good "feel" to it. The forearm is all set-up for M-LOK attachments. Barrel channel is wide enough for a barrel of the same diameter as that of the action. The last several inches of the buttstock have a shallow angle so as to allow it to be used in a bunny bag. Has several QD sockets and sling loops for attaching a sling pretty much however you would want. The MagPul came without action screws; the S2Delta did come with action screws. The MagPul came with a straight grip and an angled grip, like you'd see on an AR-type rifle. The S2 came with no grip, but did come with a grip screw and toothed washer. I have somehow misplaced the washer around my digs, and it's really irritating me. I put it "someplace I'd not forget," and I've forgotten where that is. It's just a simple washer with exterior teeth, but it's the principle of the matter. A new one is probably 25 cents-- but I'd have to go get it-- which consumes a bit of my very limited time away from work. The MagPul has a comb that adjusts up & down by around 0.8 inches. The buttplate of the MagPul can also be adjusted by about four degrees for the shooter's desired cant.

Both are such nice stocks that I've decided to keep them both. I can't imagine the Boe JiteMe Joke-ministration would have a problem with a rifle that has the capability to hit a one-gallon jug of Hawaiian Punch from 1600 yards. So nice that the bravo-itch Dianne "Dingbat" Feinswine has bitten the dust. Both chassis have/require a "protruding pistol grip." As we all know, that "protruding pistol grip" has the power to take control of a man's mind and force him to perpetrate heinous crimes with his Evil Black Rifle. And here I thought the owners of AR-type rifles were forced to commit heinous crimes because of the "500-bullet clip" the rifle uses. I've owned AR-type rifles since April of 1983 and never had any idea about the suggestive powers of the grip and the clips magazines used by the rifle. Y'learn something new everyday, huh?
 
I do in fact try to learn something new and the sad part is I'm getting to the age where i forget things and then hear things I knew but thought it was new info haha
 
Picked up a 357 S/W model 19-3, 1971 if I read the web site correctly. In close to excellent condition, did swap out the rear blade for a white line one. Fired 50 38 special thru it, then about 25 357 magnum. Local fun store said I'd not notice a difference in the two ammo, they are WRONG!! Big difference!!
That makes three of different - models I have. Two -3's, and one -9. All are a blast to shoot.........hang on tight!!
 
Went into Scheels April 10, 2024 with no idea I'd buy something before I departed. Looked at the dozens and dozens of pegs of evil, "high-capacity" clipazines for those evil and ugly, AR-type "weapons of war" and was surprised to see that the 500-bullet clips (reduced to 30 rounds) were selling for just thirteen bucks. I already have the federal maximum of one, so I was legally barred from buying a second. I wandered over to where the rifles are on display and scanned the racks for any with the bolt handle on the wrong side of the stock. Found one: A Ruger American Predator in 6.5mm Creedmoor going for $550. I asked the salesboss if he'd take $500 for it. Negative. So I thought I'd go home and look on the innerweb for a better price. A few minutes of drooling over the stainless Kimbers in .45ACP, and it hit me that I had $100 worth of Scheels gift cards in my wallet. Went back to aforementioned salesboss and bought the rifle.

The gift cards brought the final-final-final price down to $520-- to include the purchase price, the Washoe County sales tax and the $25 FBI anti-loophole background check. It was after 1600 PDT, so I had to wait until today to go get it. Can't run the 4473 after 1600 on the West Coast. Something about the FBI going home at a reasonable hour on the East Coast. Haven't gone yet, but will later this afternoon.

Looking now for a better stock than the OEM piece of flexy, bendy, cheesy Tupperware in Moss Green. I'd like a Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole like is on my Howa 1500, but it looks like Boyd's may not make one-- just a lefty for a righty action. I have sent an email asking if they might have what I need. We'll see what they say come my next day off.

Nice thing about this rifle is that it comes with a Picatinny rail already on it. Probably a zero-degree rail, but Near Manufacturing may make a 20-MOA model for it. I already have many of the powders the Creedmoor uses, and a Chinese 10-40X scope for the initial visits to the desert for breaking-in the barrel. Have a box of 50 brass and a box of 143-grain ELD-X bullets. Plenty of Large Rifle primers, too. Now, if I could just find my machine rest. I have the rear bag, so I'm pretty sure I did not give my Sinclair rest to my friend from high school.

Back to work tomorrow, so much to do today before I go get the rifle in Reno.
 
Went into Scheels April 10, 2024 with no idea I'd buy something before I departed. Looked at the dozens and dozens of pegs of evil, "high-capacity" clipazines for those evil and ugly, AR-type "weapons of war" and was surprised to see that the 500-bullet clips (reduced to 30 rounds) were selling for just thirteen bucks. I already have the federal maximum of one, so I was legally barred from buying a second. I wandered over to where the rifles are on display and scanned the racks for any with the bolt handle on the wrong side of the stock. Found one: A Ruger American Predator in 6.5mm Creedmoor going for $550. I asked the salesboss if he'd take $500 for it. Negative. So I thought I'd go home and look on the innerweb for a better price. A few minutes of drooling over the stainless Kimbers in .45ACP, and it hit me that I had $100 worth of Scheels gift cards in my wallet. Went back to aforementioned salesboss and bought the rifle.

The gift cards brought the final-final-final price down to $520-- to include the purchase price, the Washoe County sales tax and the $25 FBI anti-loophole background check. It was after 1600 PDT, so I had to wait until today to go get it. Can't run the 4473 after 1600 on the West Coast. Something about the FBI going home at a reasonable hour on the East Coast. Haven't gone yet, but will later this afternoon.

Looking now for a better stock than the OEM piece of flexy, bendy, cheesy Tupperware in Moss Green. I'd like a Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole like is on my Howa 1500, but it looks like Boyd's may not make one-- just a lefty for a righty action. I have sent an email asking if they might have what I need. We'll see what they say come my next day off.

Nice thing about this rifle is that it comes with a Picatinny rail already on it. Probably a zero-degree rail, but Near Manufacturing may make a 20-MOA model for it. I already have many of the powders the Creedmoor uses, and a Chinese 10-40X scope for the initial visits to the desert for breaking-in the barrel. Have a box of 50 brass and a box of 143-grain ELD-X bullets. Plenty of Large Rifle primers, too. Now, if I could just find my machine rest. I have the rear bag, so I'm pretty sure I did not give my Sinclair rest to my friend from high school.

Back to work tomorrow, so much to do today before I go get the rifle in Reno.
I went to Mr first sheels the other day for grand opening in Idaho- super cool store. Do you like it?
 
I went to my first Scheels the other day for grand opening in Idaho-- super cool store. Do you like it?
Yes; I like Scheels. The store is less than a thirty-minute drive from my little town. I don't have to get on I-580 and fight my way to the Sportsman's Whorehouse on Kietzke. They've got guns, guns and more guns you can pick-up and handle-- right there on the sales floor. The AR-types are in locked cages, and the Kimbers are behind glass-- and in locked cages. The shotguns can be readily fondled and caressed. I saw a 12-gauge shotgun by Citadel (model "Boss 25") that I think I might want to buy because it's possessed of so many pointers from an AR-type machine. The looks of it will make a libturd lose control of his bowels in a public place. Just 349 bucks, plus the Washoe County sales tax and 4473 stuff at 25 bucks.

Ordered the dies to reload my 6.5 Creedmoor, today, along with the trimming mandrel to get them cases to the proper length.

Found a chassis to replace the flexy, bendy, floppy stock on the Ruger American. The name is Heatseeker, and it's by Sharps Engineering or something like that. Not cheap at $400-some but Boyd's doesn't offer the Featherweight Thumbhole that I want. They have something called the "Agility," and I just don't like the looks of it...


I believe I can make this righthand stock work for me as a lefthander by machining a second bolt notch directly opposite the existing notch, which is used by righthanders. There looks just to be a "wall" there, with nothing important or "functional" being there that would entirely invalidate the functionality of the chassis. I could have the gunsmith make a small filler for the righthand bolt notch, or just leave it unfilled.
 
Yes; I like Scheels. The store is less than a thirty-minute drive from my little town. I don't have to get on I-580 and fight my way to the Sportsman's Whorehouse on Kietzke. They've got guns, guns and more guns you can pick-up and handle-- right there on the sales floor. The AR-types are in locked cages, and the Kimbers are behind glass-- and in locked cages. The shotguns can be readily fondled and caressed. I saw a 12-gauge shotgun by Citadel (model "Boss 25") that I think I might want to buy because it's possessed of so many pointers from an AR-type machine. The looks of it will make a libturd lose control of his bowels in a public place. Just 349 bucks, plus the Washoe County sales tax and 4473 stuff at 25 bucks.

Ordered the dies to reload my 6.5 Creedmoor, today, along with the trimming mandrel to get them cases to the proper length.

Found a chassis to replace the flexy, bendy, floppy stock on the Ruger American. The name is Heatseeker, and it's by Sharps Engineering or something like that. Not cheap at $400-some but Boyd's doesn't offer the Featherweight Thumbhole that I want. They have something called the "Agility," and I just don't like the looks of it...


I believe I can make this righthand stock work for me as a lefthander by machining a second bolt notch directly opposite the existing notch, which is used by righthanders. There looks just to be a "wall" there, with nothing important or "functional" being there that would entirely invalidate the functionality of the chassis. I could have the gunsmith make a small filler for the righthand bolt notch, or just leave it unfilled.
I want to explore the store more and see what other gems I can find
 
Dies arrived today; resized my first case and seated my first 143-grain ELD-X bullet.
Don't forget depending on your chamber, you can seat that bullet within C.O.A.L. limits (to fit your magazine) or longer and shoot single shot. You might get a little more accuracy. Or just load 10 that fit in the mag and pepper the target... Choices Choices
 
... depending on your chamber, you can seat that bullet within C.O.A.L. limits (to fit your magazine) ...
I set the bullet to maybe .030" short of the OEM magazine's length. I didn't notice this until I had a dummy round assembled and jacked it into the chamber. There's a kind of "semi-lock position" in the bolt handle as the bolt is being fully rotated into battery. I've never seen this before on any bolt rifle I've ever owned-- or maybe I never noticed it because it wasn't so evident. Is this some kind of "half-cock" thing dreamed-up by Ruger to avoid liability lawsuits because the gun "went off" with nobody touching it? I have heard from libturds that AR-type rifles can do that (and hit dozens of innocent bystanders), but never knew a bolt gun could manage such a magical feat. I'm hoping that once I begin to use the gun, I will become less aware of this obstacle and will eventually not feel it at all...
 
I set the bullet to maybe .030" short of the OEM magazine's length. I didn't notice this until I had a dummy round assembled and jacked it into the chamber. There's a kind of "semi-lock position" in the bolt handle as the bolt is being fully rotated into battery. I've never seen this before on any bolt rifle I've ever owned-- or maybe I never noticed it because it wasn't so evident. Is this some kind of "half-cock" thing dreamed-up by Ruger to avoid liability lawsuits because the gun "went off" with nobody touching it? I have heard from libturds that AR-type rifles can do that (and hit dozens of innocent bystanders), but never knew a bolt gun could manage such a magical feat. I'm hoping that once I begin to use the gun, I will become less aware of this obstacle and will eventually not feel it at all...
I'm going to spit ball a few things while I get an better under standing of what you are experiencing.

When you say semi lock, do you mean the bolt stops? or becomes stiff or harder to close.

Is your brass new (unfired)?

Another thing is case length becomes an issue if the brass is long enough to reach the end of the chamber. When brass is too long, it can cause the bolt to stop. Trimming brass is meant to prevent that.

On some bolts you feel the firing pin and spring compress and lock while you are closing the bolt.

Other "felt" actions are the brass case head seating in the bolt face and the extractor snapping into place. Most common is the shoulder of the brass being long enough to require some effort to close the bolt. Usually only happens with fired cases though.

Operators are standing by with free advice...
 
When you say semi lock, do you mean the bolt stops? or becomes stiff or harder to close.

Is your brass new (unfired)?

On some bolts you feel the firing pin and spring compress and lock while you are closing the bolt.


Operators are standing by with free advice...
The bolt becomes a little more reluctant to cam into battery. There are three positions:

Bolt entirely open and fully-rearward.
Bolt in a "half-cock" position, about halfway between fully-open and fully-locked.
Bolt fully-locked and ready to fire.

It's the half-cock one that's confusing me. I think what it is, is the firing pin or the cocking piece being put into a state/position that will allow the trigger to be squeezed and the firing pin to do its job. My apologies for having the rifle setting at a different angle in two of the photographs. Y'gotta touch the rifle and move it to manipulate the bolt, y'know. I think the position of the bolt between the half-cocked and fully-open images is apparent. If the half-cocked position is the firing pin being loaded prior to its release, I'd opine that Ruger used "too much spring" for the job. Maybe they gave it so much pressure so that the firing pin could handle the thicker military primers.

bolt-half-cocked-01.JPG bolt-fully-open-01.JPG bolt-fully-locked-01.JPG

Another thing this rifle does is to scrape the brass. All my brass is brand-new, never fired. A few times in and out of the chamber and there are "rubs" or scrapes on the brass about three-quarters of the distance from head to shoulder.
 
Last Edited:
The bolt becomes a little more reluctant to cam into battery. There are three positions:

Bolt entirely open and fully-rearward.
Bolt in a "half-cock" position, about halfway between fully-open and fully-locked.
Bolt fully-locked and ready to fire.

It's the half-cock one that's confusing me. I think what it is, is the firing pin or the cocking piece being put into a state/position that will allow the trigger to be squeezed and the firing pin to do its job. My apologies for having the rifle setting at a different angle in two of the photographs. Y'gotta touch the rifle and move it to manipulate the bolt, y'know. I think the position of the bolt between the half-cocked and fully-open images is apparent. If the half-cocked position is the firing pin being loaded prior to its release, I'd opine that Ruger used "too much spring" for the job. Maybe they gave it so much pressure so that the firing pin could handle the thicker military primers.

View attachment 24507 View attachment 24508 View attachment 24509

Another thing this rifle does is to scrape the brass. All my brass is brand-new, never fired. A few times in and out of the chamber and there are "rubs" or scrapes on the brass about three-quarters of the distance from head to shoulder.
I think you are correct with respect to the firing pin and spring. As for the brass, the chamber might have a burr or scratch. Most likely cosmetic. Ruger has a good warranty if there's a problem. Time to go shooting.
 
As for the brass, the chamber might have a burr or scratch. Most likely cosmetic. Ruger has a good warranty if there's a problem. Time to go shooting.
Would jump through the absolute terminus of my digestive tract if I had the time to go shoot. I've resized most of the brass, but don't have the little do-hickey thing that's used to hold the brass, mouth-up and all in nice lines. I can't remember the name of those things. I think I've been away from my reloading table for so long (four years) that I've lost the "flow" of how I once proceeded through the steps of prepping new brass for a rifle's chamber.

I have a great many of the powders used for the 143-grain Hornady ELD-X. I do hereby welcome anyone to suggest a propellant for my first Creedmoor loads. I'll use that powder and load it to pretty much the middle of the published range.
 
Would jump through the absolute terminus of my digestive tract if I had the time to go shoot. I've resized most of the brass, but don't have the little do-hickey thing that's used to hold the brass, mouth-up and all in nice lines. I can't remember the name of those things. I think I've been away from my reloading table for so long (four years) that I've lost the "flow" of how I once proceeded through the steps of prepping new brass for a rifle's chamber.

I have a great many of the powders used for the 143-grain Hornady ELD-X. I do hereby welcome anyone to suggest a propellant for my first Creedmoor loads. I'll use that powder and load it to pretty much the middle of the published range.
I think you mean the loading tray. Amazon has them. Anything that fits 308 will work.
H4350 is the go to powder same with VV N555

Don't hesitate to send a PM if needed.
 
I think you mean the loading tray.

H4350 is the go-to powder...
Thanks. I've called them a "reloading tray" since I started using them a little over forty years ago. I have a bottle of H4350. I've finished the case prep for the first loads and have started a thread to ask if Large Rifle Magnum primers can be used in the 6.5mm Creedmoor. I'm going out for Chinese buffet shortly; hope to see some responses regarding the LRM primers upon my return. Thank you, gentlemen...
 

New Resource Reviews

Back Top