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I know, I know, guilty of duplicating material.

But anyways....

These guys! Two riFALs & an HK91.

S u b R o s a
 
The AR-type. ARs are LEGO blocks for grown-ups. Whenever I add another one to my collection I add an enhanced bolt release, an enhanced magazine release, an enhanced trigger guard, a Command Arms Accessories G27 grip, an upgraded trigger (the Tactical 1005 trigger is fabulous) or a low-power hammer & trigger spring set (Kaw Valley), an aftermarket handguard, a set of anti-rotation hammer & trigger pins, mushroom-headed takedown pins (Yankee HiIl Machine), enhanced charging handle and an ambidextrous safety selector. To be sure, these cost a few bucks... but I like the add-ons much better than the OEM stuff. Makes the gun "mine" much more so than any plain-jane, off-the-rack thing...
 
My favorite is the Ruger 10/22. I have four models and my favorite of them is the factory " Ruger Race Rifle" with its serial numbers starting with RRR.... . IMHO it is the most beautiful of all the 10/22s. If anyone is interested I will post a picture. The one I shoot the most is an AMT "Small Game Hunter" model which was in stainless before Ruger offered one. My Jeep has a takedown model in it as part of my off road safety gear.
 
Daniel Defense makes some really solid stuff.
I've got one of their sliding buttstocks and their integral grip/trigger guard thang on one of my possessions. Looks good but I cut the barrel to just over 12½ inches, then pinned & welded a four-inch muzzle device to it. Never fired it before the gunsmith's work, so I never knew how accurate it might have been. The thing shot really tight five- to six-inch groups at 100 yards after the device was added, so I went with the free-float handguard tube in an effort to take any pressure off the barrel when the wheppin was setting in the bags. Didn't help. It's so hopelessly inaccurate, I don't even bother to shoot it. Lots of time and money spent for no joy. I'm so happy I could just shiitake...

In case anybody is interested, that flip-up front sight is a YHM-9394; about eighty bucks...

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Sounds like a candidate for several types of ammo to find a sweet spot.
I reload every .223 round I shoot, so finding the sweet spot could be almost as challenging as climbing Mt. Everest.
I'm thinking the pin that secures the muzzle device has a tiny bit of its length inside the bore, and that's where the problem with the accuracy is rooted.
 
I've got one of their sliding buttstocks and their integral grip/trigger guard thang on one of my possessions. Looks good but I cut the barrel to just over 12½ inches, then pinned & welded a four-inch muzzle device to it. Never fired it before the gunsmith's work, so I never knew how accurate it might have been. The thing shot really tight five- to six-inch groups at 100 yards after the device was added, so I went with the free-float handguard tube in an effort to take any pressure off the barrel when the wheppin was setting in the bags. Didn't help. It's so hopelessly inaccurate, I don't even bother to shoot it. Lots of time and money spent for no joy. I'm so happy I could just shiitake...

In case anybody is interested, that flip-up front sight is a YHM-9394; about eighty bucks...

View attachment 4835

Barrel crowned correctly?
 
Barrel crowned correctly?
No idea. I may have asked that question when I took it back to the gunsmith well over a year ago (maybe two). Don't remember if I asked, or what he said if I did ask. That muzzle device is so long, it's impossible to look down it and not get the flashlight in my face or suffer some other impediment to looking down the device to see the muzzle. I'm thinking the gunsmith just sliced-off the barrel and went forward with the pin & weld operation. It would be illegal for me to have the device removed and to then go out and shoot it with the short barrel to test for accuracy. I wondered if I had just fooled into a bad barrel, and there was nothing I can do about it short of getting a new barrel and having the device installed onto that one.

I wanted the short barrel so I could see how the military shoots their 500-yard matches with issue M4 rifles. I was on a site (got banned) that had a soldier as a member who did exactly that; he was on the US Army Marksmanship Team and they shot 500 yards with issue M4s and issue sights. I also liked the design of the device; its four-inch length allowed me to cut the barrel short and still be legal. It is (or was) made by NM Customs; called the Stalker. Their website was in the Twilight Zone the last time I looked-in on it, so they may be out of business. The thing was thirty bucks and is quite different in its looks. I have one left. It will go on my next build, whenever that obtains...
 
So, the standard Smithing procedure for shortening a barrel is to part it off in a Lathe, then, if the device fits the newely cut barrel flush, then weld and pin! If not, then the device should be broached so that the muzzle end butts up to the muzzle flush! Assuming it was pinmed and welded true and the above was how it was done, there should be no issues! If there are issues, then I would start at the alignment and work through the other possibilities to find the issue! Photos help!:)
 
So, the standard Smithing procedure for shortening a barrel is to part it off in a lathe. Then, if the device fits the newly cut barrel flush, then weld and pin!
I think the barrel gets cut, then threaded to accept the device. The device is put on with the crush washer, the slots indexed per customer request and a hole is drill in the threaded portion; hole is not to be so deep that it gets into the bore proper. Then a spot of weld is laid atop the hole to keep the pin in place. The barrel is re-Parkerized and if it's a really good job, both you and the ATF will see a little dimple where the welding is. I've looked down the barrel from the breech; I see nothing untoward in there. I have no idea why it's so horrifically inaccurate...
 
Sounds like a Missalignment? Any signs of a boolit striking a part of the muzzle device? improper heating during the welding could warp a barrel, some folks using a M.I.G. instead of T.I.G. or worse, Gas or even ARC!:(
IDK what was used, and the chances are some what slim that it did warp, but who knows!
Really slow twist, like 1/14 or..........
Even M-193 should fly strait in a really slow barrel!
 
Improper heating during the welding could warp a barrel . . . using a M.I.G. instead of T.I.G. or worse, gas or even arc!
Very little welding is required. Just a small bead to cover the steel pin that gets dropped into the hole where the threaded portion of the barrel is located. I would guess an arc welder was used, but the time under the arc would be so short because the amount of bead laid-down is so minuscule. Just a spot to cover the hole, which is maybe 3/32" in diameter.
 
M1A.

Just have a natural affinity for them. If I point one at a target and it's not sighted in by me, I may miss. But the second round will be on target - and every one after that.

The Garand is right behind it in being natural.
 
Here is my newest!
Retro Colt 607 C.A.R. 16 Commando retro build! Very close to what I was issued in 1989 ( left overs from the Vietnam Conflict) and I always loved how light and handy they were! We kept ours long into the A-2 HBAR era, and only gave them up kicking and screaming when the M-4 became standard issue!
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This Stock is the hardest and rarest to find, and if you find one in good shape, your going to pay for it big time!
Same with the grip, and I really like the early no bump grips better anyway!
I finally had to replace the hand guards, the bakelite was breaking down and it wouldn't have lasted much longer!

Only thing that is modern on this carbine is the barrel, it has the M-4 feed ramps and a 1/7 twist chrome lined barrel!
 

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