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I do not remember from where or when I took possession of this screw. It may have come in a stripped lower, or maybe in an assembled lower. It's a trigger-creep screw, but unlike any I have ever seen before or since I got it. I have several similar screws now, but none have the plastic bumper on them as does this one. Would like to discover who makes this one, and get several more. Wondering if any of our august membership can identify its source or who might make it. The threaded portion is half an inch long; the entire length is 9/16" long. Thanks.

trigger-creep-screw-RR.JPG
 
Found it! It's called a soft-tip setscrew. MSC has them under p/n 67280883. The ugly part is that they're $73.28 for a 100-count lot, and they're only to be had in 100-count lots. I need maybe a dozen to twenty. What do I do with the other eighty? Thinking I could ask for two or three First Class postage stamps and I could mail-out one or two to any member who wants one-- or two. I should think that two of them and some cardstock to provide some packing for it wouldn't tip the postage scale at over one ounce. Just an idea...
 
On quality lowers these are used to remove the slop between the upper and lower receivers, hence the plastic bumper.
I must respectfully disagree, curt. The Accu-wedge solves that problem really well. They can be secured from ebay for less than $10 for five of them; I have done so. Sometimes you have to trim the thickness of their foot to get a good fit, but that's an easy proposition.

The threaded hole for the grip screw comes through the lower directly under the rear end of the trigger. I have read that some of these holes are not threaded all the way through, most notably on Anderson receivers. My Anderson is threaded all the way through; have not checked my other lowers. The idea behind a trigger-creep screw is to reduce the amount of creep in the mil-type trigger, which increases accuracy at the target. If you were to go to the Joe Bob's Outfitters website, you'll see a creep screw that's a small-diameter screw within a drilled-out & internally-threaded grip screw. Joe Bob's sells these screws for around fifteen bucks. Instructions are included; something about adjusting the screw tight until the safety selector becomes immobile, then away from the trigger until it just barely works, then adjusting the screw back half a turn or some such shiitake until the safety operates freely. Put a drop of blue loc-tite on it at that point and you'll have adjusted out a mile of heavy, gritty creep for about six percent of the cost of a Guy-selly trigger.

The creep-screw shown below is from ebay. Notice it has a short screw that looks to have three flat sides to it. This type of screw is called a "no-tap" screw. I guess it can be threaded into a receiver that does not have the hole for the grip screw threaded all the way through. I went and bought a 1/4-28UNF tap and t-handle in case I had to tap a hole all the way through. I'd rather cut away metal with a sharp tool than try to push it out of the way with a dull tool and brute force. Using force on firearms parts can often lead to expensive tears, wailings and lamentations...

Thought last night after I powered-down my machine that maybe I can find these setscrews at a hardware store for a buck apiece. I'd buy a dozen or two at that price and save the other fifty bucks. The lower picture is the screw sold by Joe Bob's. It uses a substance known as Vibra-Tite on the inner adjustment screw. The stuff is supposed to be able to be turned and still keep the inner screw from turning; it supposedly never "dries" and can be adjusted centuries later with a simple allen wrench. I'm a "lock it down; make it tight" kind of guy when it comes to nuts and bolts, so I think I'd use the blue loc-tite on the soft-tip setscrew versus the Vibra-Tite contraption.

grip-screw.JPG

joe bobs grip screw.JPG
 
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For Anderson lowers that are not threaded all the way through, there is a creep-screw that is turned-down to fit into the unthreaded portion. It's also available from Joe Bob's, although a quick look over the past few minutes did not show them. I have one but an in-focus macro picture would probably overrun the 30-minute window to edit this post-- so you'll have to trust me...
 
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Ordered twenty each of the 1/4-28UNF x 1/2" soft-tip setscrews from McMaster-Carr, and fifty each 1/4-28UNF x 7/8" capscrews to replace the one-inch grip screws with which AR-type riffles come. I ordered the shorter grip screws to make sure the OEM ones of one inch in length would not bottom-out against the soft-tip setscrew. Hope to hellsinki the 7/8" ones are not too long. If they are, we'll be be-boppin' on over to Lowe's to buy a pack of small OD washers. Could have bought a 50-count pack of 3/4" ones, but wanted the extra 1/8" to get a better purchase on the threads. Total cost was just a few cents over $23-- a far cry from the $73 my first research found for just the setscrews. I have retrofitted my blunk riffles with low-power hamner and trinker springs. These soft-tip setscrews will now be used to adjust-out the miles of creepy, gritty, raspy trinker creep we find in the mil-spec trinkers. I'll post-up a little report as to how it goes when I get it all done...
 
My order for the 1/4-28UNF x 1/2" soft-tip setscrews and 7/8" socket-head capscrews came today. Now we go into stand-by mode for that tsunami of ambition to come along and motivate my assets into putting them into my various possessions that would use them. The grips have to come off, and the trinkers have to come out after the adjustments have been made so that a drop of blue loc-tite can be put on the threads to keep that adjustment in place until the cows come home a hundred years from now. Just hoping to hellsinki that the 7/8" screws are not so long that they bottom-out on the soft-tippers before they tighten-up the grip on the lauer receiver. Would have to go buy some 3/4" ones if such a miserable ration of misfortune befell me. Just trouble I do not need because I have no POV at my ready disposal...

Part number for the setscrews is 94115A307; for the capscrews it's 91251A441. Just search "McMaster-Carr" and add the part numbers; you'll find them. Their email looks to be [email protected]

Another thing is that the stuff came in two nice, heavier-gauge zip-loc bags. Should do quite well for holding multiple rounds of test ammo while on the way to the range. The shipping box is small, which makes for a nice box in which I can ship something else to some other place at a later date. I'd say I won all around in this deal...
 
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Went and bought ten each 3/4" capscrews and internally-toothed star washers. I'm equipped to the hilt to get these screws installed-- just as soon as that tsunami of ambition comes ashore...
 
that soft top screw looks like what aero precision uses to snug up their upper/lower fitment; eliminating the need for an accu wedge. aero precision lowers have two holes where the grip covers. one for the grip and one to snug up the upper/lower. not disagreeing that it cant be used to reduce the creep in AR triggers.


from aero precisions website:
 
. . . Aero Precision lowers have two holes where the grip covers; one for the grip and one to snug-up the upper/lower.
All of mine have just the one hole for the grip screw. Was surprised to see that my Anderson is threaded 1/4-28UNF all the way through. Consider what a stroke of genuine luck it was sixty years ago when Stoner designed the rifle to have the grip screw end-up exactly where it has to be to be used as a mechanism to adjust-out the trigger creep. Bordering on a miracle. Just one more fabulous thing about America...

Buy the setscrews from McMaster-Carr. They're 75 cents apiece, and I paid no shipping charges. Aero Precision wants $1.69 each, and probably $4.50 to ship it to you. You might do even better at a ranch & home supply. We have one here in my little town that has the entire east wall stocked-up with nuts, bolts, washers and all manner of hardware items. I paid 67 cents each for 1/4-28UNF x 3/4" socket-head capscrews today, just in case the 7/8" ones I bought mail-order are too long. Paid 27 cents each for internally-toothed, 1/4" star washers; got them just because I like the teeth to be under the head of the capscrew versus outside the head once the grip screw is tightened into place. Call me crazy, but I am enamored with the idea that the hold will be more secure if the head is pressing the teeth into the polymer of the grip.
 
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