So I want to get into reloading...

[Tanstaafl]

Will be interesting to see how they perform for you.

The whackem may be slow, but was economical enough and will give you a good enough idea as to if you want to take the next step up in reloading equipement. And for a first time, you reloaded them yourself and they are your creation.

 

[Squidgie]

That's good to hear, about the ergo prime.

 

[ma96782]

Humm...........this is from some old posts of mine. The links may not work.

Part 1

To begin on your path to re-loading. My suggestions would be to...........

Get a hold of some books and check the Internet. Invest in a re-loading manual (or several). LEARN the processes that one must go through in order to produce a round of ammunition. Get an idea of how certain jobs are done and take notes of the choices available to do the job. Get a mentor and/or go to classes that might be held by the local gun shop or gun club.
Meanwhile, here are some good sites to learn from.......

Safety…..
http://www.speer-bullets.com/reloading/reloading_safety.aspx

What you'll need…..
http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=33

Overview of the Handloading Ammo process…..
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Handloading

Re-Loading Pistol Ammo…..

http://www.reloadammo.com/relsteps.htm

Re-Loading Rifle Ammo…..
http://rifle-company.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=911
_______________________________________________
>KNOW THAT: Handloading comes with some RISK.

An individual needs to gauge his or her own RISK TOLERANCE LEVEL to each situation in their life.

What's acceptable to ME........may not be, to someone else.

The Manual writers/publishers and editors, decide what's their safety margin and each will have their own threshold for safety. Load data between various manuals will vary.

>KNOW THAT: Handloading is PART EXPERIMENTATION.

Each manual contains many WARNINGS.

One popular warning, is against making "any substitution" of components, as it may be dangerous.

Try reading this subject: How do changing various components affect chamber pressure and velocity?

www.frfrogspad.com/miscelld.htm#components

Then..........from SPEER..........

IMPORTANT NOTE: Reloading data published by SPEER are for SPEER bullets. Many of our bullets are of unique construction; there is no such thing as "generic loading data" any more. Other bullet makes may produce significantly different pressures and velocities. We make no warranty that our published loads are safe with another make of bullet. You, the reloader, bear the ultimate responsibility for knowing your firearm, loading equipment, and techniques.

So, what do you do, if you don't have the exact re-loading components as mention in the book?

IF you have a low risk tolerance level......perhaps, you'll wait until you have the exact components?

But, doing that isn't always practical.

For ME………..I'd take into consideration my RISK TOLERANCE LEVEL and maybe EXPERIMENT a little or not.

I'd search my available resources and various internet web sites. I'd attempt to figure out a SAFE (acceptable to ME) plan of action, using the available data. And/or perhaps, I might even contact the manufacturer.

ALWAYS REMEMBERING TO: Start low and work your way up.

>LASTLY……..KNOW THAT: YMWV.

Good re-loaders will not just "pick one" from the book or reproduce someone else's load and expect to see the exact same results. Conditions, equipment, components, lot#s and specs, can vary.
YMWV.
_______________________________________________

WARNING: My way of doing things may not be suitable to some of the other folks out there........so, take it for what it's worth.......this is/was, only my advice, which you got for FREE, so it's only worth that much (if anything at all).
_______________________________________________

Aloha, Mark

PART 2

As a "first press," IMHO get a bench mounted single station press. LEARN the techniques and "problem solving" of re-loading. Later, IF/WHEN, you want more production......consider a progressive press.
________________________________________________
Forgive me for saying and please, "SOME OF YOU OUT THERE," don't take offense.

But, for some folks it's best that they: "Learn to crawl before you walk, learn to walk before you run, learn to run before you drive or fly."

Some, are smart enough to start with a progressive press and be happy. Some, come running to this forum, asking for help with their progressive press problems. Maybe, IF they had learned on a single station press, they would KNOW HOW to fix the problem. And, I'm not saying that it's BAD TO ASK for help. It's just that, "YOU GOT TO KNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS."
________________________________________________
The BUY LIST………
Your list should be individual to you. Buy the equipment needed to accomplish the job, at a price that YOU can afford. More than likely, there will be some amount of compromise involved.
________________________________________________

Say, you're re-loading military 5.56mm brass cases for your AR with a single station press........consider your choice(s) for:

A re-loading manual (or several manuals).
A Press.
F/L Sizer Two Die set (or 3 die set).
Shell holder.
A way to clean dirty cases (liquid cleaner or tumbler/vibratory machine w/ media or a wipe down w/rag).
A way to de-prime military cases (regular die or universal de-capper or hammer and anvil method).
A way to de-crimp military cases (swage or ream).
A way to prime cases (on press or off press).
A way to lube cases (what lube and applied w/fingers or pad & lube or spray lube).
A way to test your re-sized cases (case gauge or actual rifle chamber).
Caliper (though, not absolutely needed if you use a case gauge).
A way to trim cases (hand powered or motorized).
A case de-bur/chamfer tool, if your trimmer didn't do it all in one pass.
A way to measure and dispense powder (dippers or disk measure or hopper/dispenser).
A way to weigh the powder (electronic or balance beam scale)

Powder.
Primers.
Bullets.
And cartridge cases.

I feel that these basic tools and components will do, for simple ammunition production.

Note that: The list above can be shortened or lengthened.

Remember, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

There are many other tools that one can purchase to do other specific jobs. It's up to YOU to choose which tools you need and which tools you want. Some tools are there to make a job simpler and some are there to hopefully make you "better" ammunition..........though, was the purchase absolutely necessary?

Choose wisely.
________________________________________________

IF you're looking to go cheap (not a bad "cheap")..........IMHO, consider, "LEE."

For dies.......use any brand (from a major mfn) that you like. They are basically, all of high quality. The differences are in the, "features and small parts."

LEE makes good dies (and they give you a bonus: a shell holder and powder dipper w/load data chart).

When re-loading bottle neck cases (.223/5.56mm) to be used in a semi auto, IMHO, buy the FULL LENGTH re-sizer, two die set. Generally, you don't need a SB die set (unless you run into trouble). IF, you want the LEE FCD they also have a three die set that includes it, for a little extra.

When re-loading for straight walled pistol cases (9mm, 45 ACP, .38 Special, etc...), IMHO, buy the carbide, three die set. The carbide re-sizer will eliminate the need to lube cases. And, IF you want the LEE FCD, I believe that LEE has a four die set, for most of the popular calibers.
_______________________________________________

ASSUMING, that you purchase a single stage press.

Basically (For non-crimped primer pocket, rifle brass like .223 Rem., say a batch "lot" of a 100 cases):
1) Inspect and clean the cases- a liquid bath in hot water, a squirt of dish soap and some wht vinegar, will get them clean. Though, not shiny.
Or, you could just wipe the cases off with a solvent dampened rag.

IF you want, clean with a bit of shine……Birchwood Casey Case Cleaning Solution (#33845 CCI) is a fast and cheap way. Mix with water (follow the directions on the package) soak the brass, drain and dry. Save the solution as it can be re-used.
2) Set up your press with the shell holder and de-capper/FL re-sizer die.

3) Lube the cases. LEE lube (#90006) can be applied with fingers. Or, buy a spray on lube from one of the "other brands."

4) Then, run some test cases through the die, it'll de-cap/re-size the brass in one pass.

5) Next, using a case gauge, check the brass to ensure that the proper re-size, has been achieved. Insert a case into the case gauge. The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace. While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it's not the "correct size," your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don't forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed.

*IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge is a case gauge. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices).

Examples of various gauges……..
www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store

6) When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot. Also, do some random tests throughout the run.

7) Trimming brass. Remember the case gauge? Well, if your brass failed the gauge test, you will need to trim the brass. Or check the brass length with a caliper.

The cheapest way to trim brass, is with the LEE case trimmer. You'll need the cutter & lock stub and shell holder & case length gauge tools. The assembled trimmer runs on hand power or with a drill. Once the trimming is done, use a chamfer/reamer tool (LEE #90109) to "knock off the edge" on the newly cut case necks.

8) Clean the brass to take off the lube.......repeat, Step #1.

9) After the brass is thoroughly dry, re-prime the cases with a new primer.

The LEE auto prime hand tool makes fast work of this job. BTW, you'll need a special shell holder (not your reg. press shell holder) made especially for the LEE auto prime.

OR........use your press mounted primer tool.

10) After the cases have been re-primed, place the cases in a loading block.

11) Using a simple powder measure, calibrate it to throw the weight of powder charge that you want.

12) Check the thrown weight with your scale.

13) When you're satisfied that the weight is "correct." Charge each of the cases with powder. Do some random powder weight checks, throughout the run.

14) Next, remove the de-capper/re-sizer die from the press and replace it with the bullet seating die. Then, place the bullet on top of the opening of the case neck. Run the case w/bullet into the bullet seating die.

15) Inspect your rounds. You're done.
______________________________________________

IF you're dealing with military cases (I'll assume the primers are crimped)……..so, add these steps...........

2) With once fired military brass, this next step only has to be done once. You could de-cap primers with the standard de-cap/re-sizer die. Though due to the primer crimp, there is a high incidence of parts breakage. IMHO, de-cap the once fired military brass using either, a "universal" de-capper die or with a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim). Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.). Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck. The nail will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer. Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil's hole). Then, with a hammer knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn.

3) Again, since we're using once fired military brass, this next step has to be done only once. The primer crimp will need to be removed. The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small). I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next.....

*Commercial cases, usually don't have a primer crimp to bother with. So, steps 2 and 3 can be omitted. Likewise, for the next time you load these "already treated" military cases.
________________________________________________

To adjust dies correctly.......see the link……. www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm
_______________________________________________

There are many LEE single station presses to choose from.www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/classic.html www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/rlpress1.html

If you're in the market for a "kit." I like this one.www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/rlpress2.html#breech
________________________________________________

IMHO, a good compromise between a single station and a progressive is a Turret Press........www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/turretpress.html
________________________________________________

NOTE: There are many ways to skin a cat. I tried to write this, keeping in mind a CHEAP WAY to do things. Thus, the choice of LEE products. Shop for your best prices. LEE products are frequently discounted.

That being said, a good press will last a lifetime and then some. Be it a LEE or RCBS or whatever other brand.

I bought a lot of my starter equipment, USED. And, I still have a lot of it.

My first press was a used RCBS Jr. and I later traded it for a used RCBS Rock Chucker. My friend wanted a smaller press and it was a straight across trade. So, how could I refuse?

Anyway, after a long time of using a single station press…………I up-graded.

I bought a Dillon. Then later, three LEE M1000 presses (just for pistol calibers).

Even after I got the progressive presses........well, just say that for ME, there will always be a job for the single station press on my bench.

And, even IF (and/or WHEN) you get a progressive........with bottle necked cases, depending on how you like to do things, you may not really gain all that much speed. BECAUSE, of the case prep steps involved (case lube, military primer crimps and trimming cases).

However, for straight walled commercial pistol cases, using carbide dies with a progressive press will really speed things up.
_________________________________________________
How much $$ will I save??
To help you with your math on your cost per round.........just plug in your cost of components.
http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp


Aloha, Mark

Choose wisely and be safe.

Aloha, Mark

 

[CFletch]

The OP returns!

I loved the wackem, and have now graduated to a Lee Classic Turret press. When my next paycheck comes through I'll be getting the Lee Reloading Stand to mount the thing on.

I cannot thank the contributors to this thread enough. You guys got me started on something great, especially since I reload 45-70 (my stuff is about .40 a round vs $1.50 for store bought).

 

[Joe Link]

Good to hear! My brother has a .45-70 I've yet to shoot, can't wait to take it out.

 

[CFletch]

Good to hear! My brother has a .45-70 I've yet to shoot, can't wait to take it out.

I reloaded for a handi-rifle, which is the lightest long-gun I am aware of that shoots the round. With full "marlin" loads it's a blast. It kicks, but it's more of a push, not sharp like 30-06 or similar high-velocity rounds.

 

[GunBoy]

I'm considering getting into reloading too. When i do, i'll check back here.

 

[CFletch]

you won't regret it if you do. With the Lee Classic "wackem" and Ergo Prime hand-primer I had less than $60 into it, iirc, excluding components. Although that is best suited to small numbers of rounds, since it is meticulous. It does allow you to get started very inexpensively though, and teaches you the basics.

 

[Dunerunner]

Congratulations on joining the reloading addiction. I'm still using a Chucker Jr. a buddy gave me a few years ago.

 

[thorborg]

I note a little Lee slaming going on here. So just remember, opinions about most anything are akin to a certain bodily orifice, everyone has one.

I have been using Lee products since 1964. I started reloading with the little Lee Classic whackem reloader, today I have dillons and other presses. IMO, the Lee Classic Cast Iron press is the finest single stage press there is, bar none.

It is easy for a beginning reloader to get overwhelmed when from all sides others are weighing in with their likes, dislikes and opinions.

My advice for one about to jump in without sufficent knowledge, unless careful, they are apt to find themselves in over their heads.

My free advice, is worth what you pay for it, but that advice is, when just starting blind on any venture, use the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) rule.

I also started with the lee hand loader in 270 about the same time, Never did move on and today I have it in six different calibers with 45-70 and 45 colt loaded monthly.( I shoot at least once a month). Over the years I added a triple beam scale, vibratory polisher, a small arbor press so I dont need to hammer the stuff, and a powder measure. in about three evenings (with a some little improvements made over the years) i can load three hundred rounds in a couple of hours per evening. Since I have more time than money it works for me. it all starts with buying two or three hundred rounds of good factory loads for the brass, as the little loaders neck size only you only want to shoot your reloads in the gun you fired the factory loads in. though this may seem limiting you'll find you can load most many times before you'll need to trim case length. I buy cast lead for target but some will hunt well also, and produce good quality stuff for slightly more than half factory price. If you want to tweek for speed and performance and take advantage of some wonderful performing bullets not generally available in off the rack factory loads you'll definately need some good books and a good scale and chronograph and patients. they will not be lower cost than factory but you will make your guns all they can be. Once you move into tweeking, start low and work up slow. keep it clean, check and recheck, work without distraction and you'll never have a misfire or trouble.I've made thousands of rounds over 47 years with out any duds and enjoyed every moment.

 

[erudne]

I know PPL that do all their reloading with a Lee, you can find them used as well!

 

[erudne]

natchezss.com
carries a line of budget reloading gear

 

[Dunerunner]

Single stage and progressive Lee presses are affordable and, I too know many reloaders who use them exclusively.

 

[badbob85037]

I'm currently looking into purchasing a .45-70 Handi-Rifle, and I will likely need to reload if I want to actually shoot it any appreciable amount. I'm on a pretty tight budget (college student, after all) but would like to get into reloading while I have still have some extra funds around.

Unfortunately, my Googling has revealed that reloading is a complex process (yes, I probably should have guessed that). Since I know there are some avid reloaders on these boards, maybe you'd like to help a kid out and explain how I get into this without busting the bank. Starter equipment, components, helpful tricks you wish someone had told you when you got started, that sort of thing.

As I said, my budget is pretty tight. I would like to eventually get set up to reload .45-70, .30-06, 5.56mm, and 9mm (12ga too, but Squidgie's blog has some tricks I'll be using). But for starters I'll probably just do 45-70 until I get a hang of things.

I got started with a little Lee Breech Lock press The press with some options is about $80 bills. I don't know if you can still get it with a set of dies but if you can it will save you on your dies It takes standard dies and I could load all pistol and rifle rounds on this little press. You will save a lot of time if you get a lee auto primmer. I use a couple 4 station turret presses Just make sure when you decide reloading is for you get a Dillion reloading press. The one I got I have had for at least 20 years. It,s been through 6 primmer feeds. I came out of my attic and kicked it destroying the powder hopper and the charging die. Two years ago I had the thing completely rebuilt and it would have cost more than I payed for it but with Dillions presses when they say for life they mean it. Feeling a little bad I tried to buy some decapping pins. No way they gave them to me. If I need a part it will be here in 2 days tops. No company stands by their product like Dillion.

 

[Joe Link]

I got started with a little Lee Breech Lock press The press with some options is about $80 bills. I don't know if you can still get it with a set of dies but if you can it will save you on your dies It takes standard dies and I could load all pistol and rifle rounds on this little press. You will save a lot of time if you get a lee auto primmer. I use a couple 4 station turret presses Just make sure when you decide reloading is for you get a Dillion reloading press. The one I got I have had for at least 20 years. It,s been through 6 primmer feeds. I came out of my attic and kicked it destroying the powder hopper and the charging die. Two years ago I had the thing completely rebuilt and it would have cost more than I payed for it but with Dillions presses when they say for life they mean it. Feeling a little bad I tried to buy some decapping pins. No way they gave them to me. If I need a part it will be here in 2 days tops. No company stands by their product like Dillion.

That's great to hear. I haven't got into reloading yet, but when I do I plan on going with a Dillion setup from the get-go.

 

[badbob85037]

If you need a powder dipper make one with an empty case and a 16 penny nail
Use an old barbecue rotisserie to polish your brass
Stand your brass up in a pan, leave the top of the round above water and heat it with a flame. It will make the brass soft and make the brass last a lot longer. I have .357 I have reloaded for 25 years.

Then when you decide you want to reload you will say 'I must I made all this junk to make it EZ.

 

[Joe Link]

If you need a powder dipper make one with an empty case and a 16 penny nail
Use an old barbecue rotisserie to polish your brass
Stand your brass up in a pan, leave the top of the round above water and heat it with a flame. It will make the brass soft and make the brass last a lot longer. I have .357 I have reloaded for 25 years.

Then when you decide you want to reload you will say 'I must I made all this junk to make it EZ.

Thanks for the tips, Bob!

 

[CAMPMEAT]

I bought the Hornady Lock-N-Load then added. I have about $1000 into mine.