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Any body have to buy any .308 brass lately. It ain't cheap and if it is it's probably not worth it. There are a few ways on Youtube but a lot of them seem pretty shaby. There is one that has proved to me to work. You'll need a primer pocket swaging die Not 'super glue'. That is a hint on which one to avoid on Youtube. Look for the one that uses 1/16" copper tubingswaging it into the primer pocket. It takes time to remove the berdan primer and you need to drill a center hole in the primer pocket. Once you finish you should be able to reload the steel case 3 to 5 times with standard large rifle primers. It's cheaper than dirt.
 
I started shooting 308 a long time ago and have always kept my brass. Since I have a five gallon bucket full that I haven't even processed yet along with all the ones I have looking for 308 brass wasn't on my priority list.

I always wondered why I hang on to the bucket but now I'm glad I did.
 
No .308 brass; I shoot only 5.56mm and only in Boxer brass. I've got more of those than I can count. At least is seems so when I sit at my bench for hours and hours on end, processing the stuff.
 
I started shooting 308 a long time ago and have always kept my brass. Since I have a five gallon bucket full that I haven't even processed yet along with all the ones I have looking for 308 brass wasn't on my priority list.

I always wondered why I hang on to the bucket but now I'm glad I did.
I got a few of those buckets. I'll trade you half a bucket of 30/06 for half a bucket of .308.
 
I have reloaded steel cased .45acp, against advice. No sweat shooting it, but I do wonder if the steel cases wear on my pistols. Still havent tried steel case in my Glock.. This ammo was sold in sealed cans and is supposed to have been made for sub-guns, but why would they issue hotter ammo and not expect it to wind up in the 1911s?
 
I have reloaded steel cased .45acp, against advice. No sweat shooting it, but I do wonder if the steel cases wear on my pistols. Still havent tried steel case in my Glock.. This ammo was sold in sealed cans and is supposed to have been made for sub-guns, but why would they issue hotter ammo and not expect it to wind up in the 1911s?
If anything I would think the sub gun ammo would have a harder primmer. I have used thousands of rounds of steel in my AK and it's still running and this is as far back to when you could buy 1,440 rounds on stripper clips for $75. Then Olympic Arms built the first AK pistol. That reclassified the soft steel rounds armor piercing, dealers had to pull them from their shelf and the stupid hoarders were paying a buck a round from private sellers. What happened from that point to now I have no Idea. But the last large quality of 7.62 x 39 I bought was steel cased, steel core. If a weapon can't fire steel ammunition I don't think it is much of a weapon.
 
Any body have to buy any .308 brass lately. It ain't cheap and if it is it's probably not worth it. There are a few ways on Youtube but a lot of them seem pretty shaby. There is one that has proved to me to work. You'll need a primer pocket swaging die Not 'super glue'. That is a hint on which one to avoid on Youtube. Look for the one that uses 1/16" copper tubingswaging it into the primer pocket. It takes time to remove the berdan primer and you need to drill a center hole in the primer pocket. Once you finish you should be able to reload the steel case 3 to 5 times with standard large rifle primers. It's cheaper than dirt.
.
What you may save in brass costs you'll waste in ruined loading dies and scratched chamber walls. But hey, dirt is cheap. Until it turns into mud.
 

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