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Took Remington 700 to range to shoot. Rifle externals all very clean. Chambered and attempted firing. Didn't fire or mark primer. Removed bolt and attempted to replace and it was frozen so the rear of the bolt wouldn't align with rifle action. Called my son. He told about using a boot lace and dime to take the bold apart. Confirmed his information on ...tube. Took the bolt apart, cleaned, oiled. Put everything back together and the rifle works as designed. Boot lace or paracord and a dime. Or spend $20 on a tool. Or hire a gunsmith.
 
I suppose that's how the oldtimers got a rifle to fire when a gunsmith was many miles away. Today, we want everything to work to 100% of its design parameters. Sometimes the old ways to fix a problem are the best ways...

Per the $20 tool, I had one. It's called a Kleinendorst tool. They're very easy to use, and they offer no chance of damaging the bolt. They go for fifty bucks these days...
 
Removed bolt from rifle. Bottom side of bolt, opposite end of firing pin, are two lugs. Tied a boot lace to reloading press. Hooked a lug to boot lace loop and pulled. Bolt end moved, revealing a machined slot. Inserted dime into slot, which held pressure. Allowed threaded portion to be unthreaded, revealing firing pin and springs. Thus parts extracted. Cleaned with brake cleaner. Applied lubricant. Restored by threading bolt firmly together. Applied pressure to relive tension of dime. Assume all safety precautions will be followed: empty weapon, safety glasses, gloves when using brake fluid...blah, blah, blah
 
Animal Chimp.gif
Bummer! This picture is supposed to be animated
but, due to the last "Upgrade" to Thunderbird, it doesn't
seem to be working unless you click on it. :mad:
 
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Here is the trick, super easy to do, and you can come up with others that basically do the sawm thing!
In the Mil. We were shown how to use the heel of our boot to pull the firing pin shroud back to effect the same thing! This covers ALL Remington Bolt actions, M-721/722, M-7, M-700, and M-600 series rifles!

And, for most Mauser types, the M-1903 Springfield bolt disassembly, requires only your fingers!
This will cover most Winchester M-54/M-70, Ruger M-77's and Mauser 98's with a few differences, but not requiring any tools, except a dime or case rim!
 
How do I get firing pin to remain in fire position and remove bolt from rifle? Can easily take bolt apart, but pin in retained in cocked position.
You don't, it's held captive by the bolt stop, there is a drift pin at the rear you have to drive out, DONT unless you have a way to keep things from flying across the county! Ideally, you would have the $100 dollar tool set to do this,, but it's not worth it unless your doing it all the time! Unless you break the firing pin, there should be no need to go further in disassembly!
 
Called Bank Street Guns, Kingman. Got the name of two local gun smiths. Called and stopped by the first. Took action, bolt and trigger. He was totally unsure of with Remington 700! Charged me $30 dollars to insert no-go and go-gauges. Remember, bolt will not go in to full battery. Regardless if the chamber is empty or no. His conclusion is I have ahead-space issue. Pleasant man. Honest. He said doesn't have the tools or experience to remove barrel and replace with new, if required. Based on experience not returning to him for anything. Moved on. Have second appointment on Friday to meet another local smith.
 
Yahoo! Found a very pleasant and competent gunsmith around Kingman. He discovered Oregon gunsmith hadn't removed broken scope mount screw, but has driven it into locking lug on bolt. Estimated only .080 (.008 not previous number) but enough resistance to keep bolt from locking in place to fire. Sadly, paid another Arizona gunsmith $35.00 to look at it and shrug his shoulders. Putting all back together and waiting for a calm day to sight it in. Learned a bunch a long the way. Hope my saga helps others to shoot much, often, and safely.
 
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